Through the 20th century, Brazzaville and Kinshasa were the center of this culture of identity expression through emancipation. At first, the western garments and aesthetics were worn by the indigenous to show off their style copied at the opposite of the sobriety and simplicity preached by Missionaries, subsequently indigenous delicated themselves to know how to wear them correctly to belong to the local elites or to seem “evolue” . Then after, moreover, after the WWII, the African diaspora came back spreading an exasperated cult of elegance and designer clothes. Thus, la SAPE were established by the Diaspora in Brussels and Paris.